WaterSense is a program sponsored by the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency. The program promotes water efficient products, such as low-flow toilets, faucets, and faucet accessories. These water efficient products will carry the WaterSense label, making it easy for consumers to identify which products will conserve water and thus save money by decreasing consumer’s water use. Many WaterSense products are available at home improvement stores, such as Home Depot and Lowe’s.
WaterSense Links:
Homepage
http://www.epa.gov/watersense
Save Water, Save Energy, Save Money
http://www.epa.gov/watersense/water_efficiency/benefits_of_water_efficiency.html
Calculate Your Water Savings
http://www.epa.gov/watersense/calculate_your_water_savings.html
U.S. Water Use
http://www.epa.gov/watersense/water_efficiency/us_water_use.html
Prepared by Ashley Osborne, Extension Associate for Environmental Issues.
Tuesday, February 2, 2010
Wednesday, January 27, 2010
What I learned at the Fruit and Vegetable Meeting
Whether you grow fruits and veggies in your backyard or several acres for sale at Farmers Markets and the Fairview Produce Auction, there is much to be learned at the annual Fruit and Vegetable Meeting in Christian County. Held Wednesday, January 27, 2010, guest speakers included extension specialists, producers, and the Fairview Produce Marketing Agent - Ralph Burkholder. I will share some of the more technical information on crop production in later posts but I thought you might appreciate an update on the health of the auction as told by Mr. Burkholder.
Tomatoes continue to dominate as the number one profit maker at the auction, followed by hanging flower baskets, then garden mums. Even with tomato as king, Ralph says there is still demand for more - as tomato sales only account for about 15% of total market sales. Bottom line for growers...grow more tomatoes. That's good news for Christian and neighboring Todd County where the bulk of production occurs. Ralph also said adding some yellow and pink tomatoes to the mix will be well received as will heirloom and cherry tomatoes.
Ralph also pointed out a huge hole in the auctions sales - berries. Buyers want them but supply is achingly low. Blueberries and brambles are especially in demand. Same goes for strawberries. This spells opportunity for some farmers in the area. The UK New Crop Opportunities website is a great resource for anyone considering this option. You can visit the site at: http://www.uky.edu/Ag/NewCrops/intro.html
Overall the auction is in good shape with buyers driving from far distances for the quality products being produced in Christian County. Ralph and the Auction thanks you. If you would like to receive a Fairview Produce Auction report summary for 2009, contact me at the Extension Office or by email (kelly.jackson@uky.edu).
Tomatoes continue to dominate as the number one profit maker at the auction, followed by hanging flower baskets, then garden mums. Even with tomato as king, Ralph says there is still demand for more - as tomato sales only account for about 15% of total market sales. Bottom line for growers...grow more tomatoes. That's good news for Christian and neighboring Todd County where the bulk of production occurs. Ralph also said adding some yellow and pink tomatoes to the mix will be well received as will heirloom and cherry tomatoes.
Ralph also pointed out a huge hole in the auctions sales - berries. Buyers want them but supply is achingly low. Blueberries and brambles are especially in demand. Same goes for strawberries. This spells opportunity for some farmers in the area. The UK New Crop Opportunities website is a great resource for anyone considering this option. You can visit the site at: http://www.uky.edu/Ag/NewCrops/intro.html
Overall the auction is in good shape with buyers driving from far distances for the quality products being produced in Christian County. Ralph and the Auction thanks you. If you would like to receive a Fairview Produce Auction report summary for 2009, contact me at the Extension Office or by email (kelly.jackson@uky.edu).
Tuesday, December 8, 2009
Caring for Your Fresh Cut Christmas Tree
The biggest question homeowners ask when they go to purchase a tree is how can you tell you have the perfect one? At neighborhood tree lots or home stores, begin by looking for trees with a rich green color. Feel the tree’s needles, they should be bendable. If they are easily snapped the tree is too dry and may not last long indoors. Lift the tree a few inches and drop it on the ground. It is natural for inside needles to fall out but the outside needles should stay in place. Remember that trees sold on lots may have been cut weeks earlier. It is best to buy trees early or those kept in shade.
When selecting trees at a tree farm check the trunk for straightness and make sure the base of the tree is 6 to 8 inches long so it will fit into your tree stand. It is natural for healthy trees to drop needles this time of year even while they are in the field. Some businesses have equipment that shakes the tree to remove all loose needles - it is also fun to watch. You may want to cover your tree with a tarp to keep the wind from drying out the needles on the drive home.
Whether you get your tree at a lot or a farm, all trees should be re-cut once you get home and placed immediately into water as the sap of the tree can create a seal that prevents the uptake of water in only a few minutes. Perhaps the most important step should be thought out before you leave to buy a tree – namely, where will you place the tree and what is the height and width of the space? Nothing is worse than bringing home the perfect tree that just won’t fit.
There are several tree types available. It is important to select the one that most closely fits your needs. Some of the most common trees include:
Once you have selected a tree and bring it home, water it heavily for the first week. The tree may require 2 quarts to a gallon of water each day. Commercially available water additives are not necessary. Place the tree away from heat sources (i.e., TV, fireplace, air duct) as this will cause poor needle retention or even a fire hazard. Never leave your home with the tree lights on or leave the lights on when you go to bed. Frays or worn spots in electrical lights can be a fire hazard in drier trees.
When selecting trees at a tree farm check the trunk for straightness and make sure the base of the tree is 6 to 8 inches long so it will fit into your tree stand. It is natural for healthy trees to drop needles this time of year even while they are in the field. Some businesses have equipment that shakes the tree to remove all loose needles - it is also fun to watch. You may want to cover your tree with a tarp to keep the wind from drying out the needles on the drive home.
Whether you get your tree at a lot or a farm, all trees should be re-cut once you get home and placed immediately into water as the sap of the tree can create a seal that prevents the uptake of water in only a few minutes. Perhaps the most important step should be thought out before you leave to buy a tree – namely, where will you place the tree and what is the height and width of the space? Nothing is worse than bringing home the perfect tree that just won’t fit.
There are several tree types available. It is important to select the one that most closely fits your needs. Some of the most common trees include:
- Leyland Cypress – upright feathery branches; dark green to gray color; light scent; good for allergy sufferers
- Balsam Fir – long lasting short needles with rounded tips; dark green color with silvery cast; fragrant
- Fraser Fir – pyramid-shaped with strong upward-turning branches; dark green color; good needle retention; nice scent
- Scotch Pine – stiff branches with spaces for ornaments; dark green color; very long needle retention even when dry; nice scent
- Virginia Pine – long needles on strong branches; holds heavy ornaments; dark green color; pine scent
- White Pine – very full habit but supports fewer ornaments than Virginia; blue-green color; little to no fragrance; less allergens
- Blue Spruce – short needles on stiff branches support heavy ornaments; dark green to powdery blue color; drops needles in warm rooms but less than Norway
- Norway Spruce – good conical shape; dark green color; poor needle retention without proper care; strong fragrance
Once you have selected a tree and bring it home, water it heavily for the first week. The tree may require 2 quarts to a gallon of water each day. Commercially available water additives are not necessary. Place the tree away from heat sources (i.e., TV, fireplace, air duct) as this will cause poor needle retention or even a fire hazard. Never leave your home with the tree lights on or leave the lights on when you go to bed. Frays or worn spots in electrical lights can be a fire hazard in drier trees.
Friday, November 6, 2009
Rain Barrels
During this time of economic uncertainty, many individuals are thinking of new creative ways to save money. From the gas pump to the grocery store, Kentuckians are spending wisely and conserving to stretch their dollar. But why stop at the gas pump or the grocery store? Consider the dollars that can be saved by turning off the tap.
One way to reduce the amount of municipal water used is to collect rainwater in a rain barrel. A rain barrel is a large container connected to the end of a downspout used to collect rainwater and melted snow and ice running off a rooftop. The water collected can be used for watering lawns, gardens, and flowers. This reduces the amount of water used from public water suppliers, thus not only decreasing your water bill, but also reducing the amount of chemicals and energy used to treat water.
Christian County Rain Barrel Workshop
Resources:
Rain Barrel Publication:
http://www.ca.uky.edu/enri/kwam2009/enri224.pdf
Bowling Green, KY Rain Barrel Fact Sheet:
http://www.stormwater.kytc.ky.gov/MCM2/documents/Rain%20Barrel%20Facts.pdf
Bluegrass PRIDE Information on Rain Barrels:
http://www.kentuckypride.com/campaigns/stormwater/maintain_rain_barrels.htm
University of FL Extension - How to Build a Rain Barrel Website: http://sarasota.extension.ufl.edu/Hort/Pubs/Rainbarrel.shtml
Compiled by Ashley Osborne, Extension Associate for Environmental and Natural Resource Issues, September 2009
One way to reduce the amount of municipal water used is to collect rainwater in a rain barrel. A rain barrel is a large container connected to the end of a downspout used to collect rainwater and melted snow and ice running off a rooftop. The water collected can be used for watering lawns, gardens, and flowers. This reduces the amount of water used from public water suppliers, thus not only decreasing your water bill, but also reducing the amount of chemicals and energy used to treat water.
Christian County Rain Barrel WorkshopResources:
Rain Barrel Publication:
http://www.ca.uky.edu/enri/kwam2009/enri224.pdf
Bowling Green, KY Rain Barrel Fact Sheet:
http://www.stormwater.kytc.ky.gov/MCM2/documents/Rain%20Barrel%20Facts.pdf
Bluegrass PRIDE Information on Rain Barrels:
http://www.kentuckypride.com/campaigns/stormwater/maintain_rain_barrels.htm
University of FL Extension - How to Build a Rain Barrel Website: http://sarasota.extension.ufl.edu/Hort/Pubs/Rainbarrel.shtml
Compiled by Ashley Osborne, Extension Associate for Environmental and Natural Resource Issues, September 2009
Tuesday, October 27, 2009
Holly Black Root Rot is Active
The following information is from the Kentucky Pest News, Number 1215 as written by Dr. John Hartman, Plant Pathologist
Some Kentucky gardeners have observed a decline in the health of landscape hollies due to black root rot infections. Black root rot, caused by the fungus Thielaviopsis basicola can do significant damage to hollies in landscape beds. Black root rot is most frequently observed on Japanese holly, blue holly, and inkberry in Kentucky. Susceptible blue holly cultivars include: Blue Angel, Blue Maid, Blue Prince, Blue Princess, Blue Stallion, China Boy, China Girl and Dragon Lady. While English and Chinese hollies are reportedly resistant, American and Yaupon hollies are considered to be only moderately resistant. Other ornamentals known to be susceptible include begonia, cyclamen, geranium, gloxinia, oxalis, petunia, phlox, poinsettia, sweet pea, verbena, and viola (pansy). Black root rot may also affect alfalfa, cotton, cowpea, eggplant, peanut, snapbean, soybean, tobacco, and tomato.
Leaf yellowing and scorch symptoms of a dying shoot from a black root rot-infected blue holly.
Symptoms. The first symptoms of black root rot include yellowing and marginal scorch of the foliage and shoot dieback. Later, twigs or stems may die back and eventually the entire plant may die. The root system of the declining plant is stunted and decayed. These symptoms could be confused with Phytophthora root rot which was also widespread in landscapes this year. Unlike Phytophthora, black root rot causes black lesions on the infected roots which, in the early stages of disease, contrast sharply with the adjacent healthy white portions. Lesions may appear on the tips of feeder roots or elsewhere along the root. Diagnosis can be confirmed by microscopic analysis which reveals the characteristic chlamydospores of the fungus embedded in the root tissues.
Inkberry holly roots affected with Black Root Rot.
Disease Management. Gardeners and nursery growers need to be aware that the black root rot fungus can persist indefinitely in the soil or it can survive as a saprophyte on plant debris, so once a landscape or nursery bed is contaminated with the fungus, it is difficult to remove.
• Plant only disease-free plants in the landscape. Sometimes diseased, but well-watered and fertilized, nursery-grown hollies or bedding plants will appear to be healthy but, after they are placed in the landscape, they may decline due to more stressful growing conditions. This means it is very important to examine root systems prior to planting. If blackened roots are evident, plants should be rejected.
• Avoid planting susceptible plants in soils known to be infested with the fungus. While the fungus is widespread, it may be present in higher levels in soils where black root rot was previously a problem on other plants such as petunia or pansy. Occasionally, when old agricultural lands are developed for housing, homeowners may find they have also purchased a black root rot problem from a former tobacco or alfalfa field as well.
• In the landscape, badly infected plants should be removed and the site replanted with a non-susceptible host.
• There are no effective fungicide drenches available for controlling black root rot in the landscape. Steam pasteurization or chemical fumigation will eradicate the fungus from propagation and growing media in nurseries. The fungicide Medallion is registered for managing this disease in greenhouses.
Some Kentucky gardeners have observed a decline in the health of landscape hollies due to black root rot infections. Black root rot, caused by the fungus Thielaviopsis basicola can do significant damage to hollies in landscape beds. Black root rot is most frequently observed on Japanese holly, blue holly, and inkberry in Kentucky. Susceptible blue holly cultivars include: Blue Angel, Blue Maid, Blue Prince, Blue Princess, Blue Stallion, China Boy, China Girl and Dragon Lady. While English and Chinese hollies are reportedly resistant, American and Yaupon hollies are considered to be only moderately resistant. Other ornamentals known to be susceptible include begonia, cyclamen, geranium, gloxinia, oxalis, petunia, phlox, poinsettia, sweet pea, verbena, and viola (pansy). Black root rot may also affect alfalfa, cotton, cowpea, eggplant, peanut, snapbean, soybean, tobacco, and tomato.
Leaf yellowing and scorch symptoms of a dying shoot from a black root rot-infected blue holly.Symptoms. The first symptoms of black root rot include yellowing and marginal scorch of the foliage and shoot dieback. Later, twigs or stems may die back and eventually the entire plant may die. The root system of the declining plant is stunted and decayed. These symptoms could be confused with Phytophthora root rot which was also widespread in landscapes this year. Unlike Phytophthora, black root rot causes black lesions on the infected roots which, in the early stages of disease, contrast sharply with the adjacent healthy white portions. Lesions may appear on the tips of feeder roots or elsewhere along the root. Diagnosis can be confirmed by microscopic analysis which reveals the characteristic chlamydospores of the fungus embedded in the root tissues.
Inkberry holly roots affected with Black Root Rot.Disease Management. Gardeners and nursery growers need to be aware that the black root rot fungus can persist indefinitely in the soil or it can survive as a saprophyte on plant debris, so once a landscape or nursery bed is contaminated with the fungus, it is difficult to remove.
• Plant only disease-free plants in the landscape. Sometimes diseased, but well-watered and fertilized, nursery-grown hollies or bedding plants will appear to be healthy but, after they are placed in the landscape, they may decline due to more stressful growing conditions. This means it is very important to examine root systems prior to planting. If blackened roots are evident, plants should be rejected.
• Avoid planting susceptible plants in soils known to be infested with the fungus. While the fungus is widespread, it may be present in higher levels in soils where black root rot was previously a problem on other plants such as petunia or pansy. Occasionally, when old agricultural lands are developed for housing, homeowners may find they have also purchased a black root rot problem from a former tobacco or alfalfa field as well.
• In the landscape, badly infected plants should be removed and the site replanted with a non-susceptible host.
• There are no effective fungicide drenches available for controlling black root rot in the landscape. Steam pasteurization or chemical fumigation will eradicate the fungus from propagation and growing media in nurseries. The fungicide Medallion is registered for managing this disease in greenhouses.
Thursday, October 15, 2009
October 2009 Yard of the Month Winners
The October Yard of the Month Winners have been posted to the city website: http://www.hoptown.org/agencies/beautification-commission/beautification-commission
Each month (April to October) the Hopkinsville Beautification Commission selects a winning home and landscape for each city ward. Nominees are called in or emailed to the Mayors office (890-0200). They can be self nominated or nominated by a neighbor or the commission members.
Winners have the honor of hosting the Yard of the Month lawn sign for that month and their home photos appear on the city website and a special monthly section of the Kentucky New Era called "Keep It Clean/Keep It Green".
Monday, October 5, 2009
Home Composting Information
Although this year's growing season is quickly coming to a close, it's never too early to start planning for next year's garden. Composting is an easy way to enrich your soil, reduce the amount of chemical fertilizers used (thereby saving YOU money), and cut down on the amount of waste that enters our landfills.
Below are several resources, including publications, short media articles/radio scripts, and links related to composting.
University of KY Resources:
Below are several resources, including publications, short media articles/radio scripts, and links related to composting.
University of KY Resources:
- Composting publications:
http://www.ca.uky.edu/gogreen/home_waste.php#compostingwww.ca.uky.edu/gogreen/home_waste.php#composting
http://www.ca.uky.edu/gogreen/home_waste.php#composting
Additional Links and Resources:
- Composting in the Classroom Downloadable Book - Cornell University: http://compost.css.cornell.edu/CIC.html
- Basic composting information - US Environmental Protection Agency: www.epa.gov/epawaste/conserve/rrr/composting/index.htm
Compiled by Ashley Osborne, Extension Associate for Environmental and Natural Resource Issues, October 2009
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